No it’s just another way of adding chlorine. No manual addition of chlorine needs to be done when production of chlorine is via a salt chlorinator. You still need to measure your chlorine level just as in a normal chlorinated swimming pool. Even salinity need to be kept at a recommended level.
To warm up a pool takes different amounts of time depending on pool size, weather, temperature, wind conditions and the heating power available, how the pool structure’s bottom and walls are insulated as well as if pool cover is used.
An electric heater delivers the rated output marked on the product.
A heat exchanger transfers heat energy from another heat source to the pool. Which heating output it delivers all depends on the water flow and temperature differences between the pool and heating systems. One can never obtain a higher heating effect in the pool than specified output of the heat source.
A pool heat pump uses the energy from the air. The heat pump’s effect is often quoted based on the weather and a pool temperature about 25 °C. Low weather temperature and warm pool water reduces the heat pump´s rated output with up to 30%. High weather temperature and cold pool water increases the heat pump’s rated output with up to 30%.
kW/ Volume | 6 | 9 | 12 | 15 | 18 | 24 | 30 | 36 | 45 | 60 | 72 |
25 m2 | 87 | 58 | 44 | 35 | 29 | 22 | 17 | 15 | 12 | 9 | 7 |
45 m2 | 157 | 105 | 78 | 63 | 52 | 39 | 31 | 26 | 21 | 16 | 13 |
70 m2 | – | 163 | 122 | 98 | 81 | 61 | 49 | 41 | 33 | 24 | 20 |
The amount of hours in theory it takes to heat up your pool based on volume and the capacity (kW) of the heaters. From 10-28 °C without any deduction of heat loss.
No, the pump function is to circulate the pool water. The flow is important for your pool to work optimally and a larger pump than necessary does not give better purification. It is important that the pump, filters, skimmers and inlets are dimensioned relatively to each other. Only a larger pump does not give better cleaning, it only increases water flow through the filter, which leads to poorer filtration and higher energy consumption.
When the “free” chlorine reacts with organic matter, it turns into something called “bound” chlorine, and that’s when you feel a so-called “chlorine smell”.
No, not as long as the levels for pH, chlorine, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid are kept within recommended values. Normally only a small amount of water needs to be replaced. New water is normally added to replace the water that is washed away during the regular backwash of the sand filter.